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Thursday, July 15, 2010

Eleven Madison Park, $29

I just love Eleven Madison Park.  It is one of my favorite restaurants. Eleven Madison Park inspired me in culinary school.  Our career counselors told us to think of a restaurateur or chef that we would like learn from and contact the establishment to do a trail (like an internship).  For me, Chef Daniel Humm had impressed me with his work at Eleven Madison Park. He started working in the kitchens when he was 14.  He trained in some of the top restaurants in Europe and has been nominated and received many culinary awards, most recently the 2010 James Beard Award for Best NYC Chef.  My trail didn't end up with me as the Chef's newest prodigy mainly, because I didn't have it in me to complete an entire awkward dinner service standing in corners watching others work.  I like it much better in the front of the house as a customer.  I have had great dinners and lunches there. However, I have never had their Prix Fixe lunch.

The wonderful and intelligent Mee-Ryung was my lunch partner once again.  We were seated side-by-side along a wall that gave us full view of the bright, art deco restaurant with 30 foot ceilings.  Our Prix Fixe option was two courses for $29.  If we wanted desserts, it would be a la carte.  We had a choice of two items we could pick from three categories: cold appetizers, hot appetizers and entree.  I got the veal sweetbreads and lamb. M got the tuna tartare and bouillabaisse.  With a nice Rose wine picked out for us with the help of the sommelier, we were ready for our food experience. First we were brought an amuse bouche.  A carrot marshmallow and a asparagus gele`e topping a foie gras mousse and a Gruyere gougere.  The carrot marshmallow was too carrot.  It had the untamed carrot twang of highly, yet not carefully reduced carrot juice.  M accidentally dropped hers on the floor, we got more enjoyment from wondering if the marshmallow had bounced when it landed under the table than eating the little orange square.  The asparagus and foie gras did not hit a high note either.  The asparagus gele overpowered the delicate foie gras mousse underneath and with the cold temperature at which it was served made for a an odd palate pairing.  The gougere was fine, not great, but it was cheese, hard to go wrong there.  We also received some sweet Vermont Butter and Fleur de Sel for our unmemorable bread.





We received our first course.  My sweetbreads were pretty fantastic.  The sweetbreads were sauteed and served over Israeli couscous with mushrooms, peas and garlic.  The dish was not heavy as the sweetbread were not fried.  The flavors complimented each other very nicely. I really enjoyed it.   M's tuna tartare was a little disappointing.  It was served with peas, mint and grapefruit with a couple shrimp chips.  The tuna was good, but the dish lacked a balance of flavor.  The mint, peas and grapefruit seemed like a thoughtful, tasty accompaniment.  However, in reality, the mint and peas did not add anything to the tuna, in fact they overpowered.  The grapefruit gave some needed acid to the dish but was overpowering, as well.  The shrimp toasts didn't fit with the dish.  They added little to the overall taste and enjoyment of the dish (and I love shrimp chips).  We reminisced about the superb tuna tartare at Nougatine.

Both entrees came to the table looking beautiful.  However, the lamb, like the tuna, was garnished in such a way that it hid the protein which I am not a fan of for two reasons. One, because the dish only looks nice until you move the garnish to eat and, two, what are they trying to hide?  Thankfully, they weren't trying to hide any blunder under the garnish of my lamb dish.  It was delicious.  The meat was perfectly done, the sauce was nicely balanced and the greens cut the richness nicely to make the dish less heavy.  M's bouillabaisse was gorgeous looking.  The fish was cooked well with big, plump mussels surrounding the sea bass.  The sauce looked rich and flavorful, but didn't deliver. It was bland.  At least, the fish and mussels tasted good on their own.

We decided not to order dessert.  We were a bit disappointed about the meal, so we decided against it.  I was also a little embarrassed.  I had raved about this restaurant to M and it had been my "dream restaurant" to work at (when I was in culinary school).   I was ready to go. . . until we saw Chef  Daniel Humm in the dining room.  M asked him for a picture with us.  He happily obliged, sat between us, put his arms over our shoulders and grinned.  I did not say anything about our disappointing food experience.  Besides, he has won awards and any kitchen can have an off day or even a dish or theme that is not very well received.  Boy, was he nice to take a picture with us.  I was just an admirer, now I am a bit smitten.  I will definitely go back.

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